Adrian and Susie's Blog
Tuesday, November 02, 2004
 
TransMongolian Rail journey
For the benefit of mankind we must make it clear that traveling across Russia on a train is not;

(1) Interesting
(2) Exciting
(3) Romantic

Unless of course your idea of the above involves spending 5 days of your life confined to an area no larger than a king sized bed with a close friend and a family of Mongolian traders selling firs from every station you stop at.

The journey was as follows,

Day 1 - Wednesday - board the train a 9.30 pm. Total chaos as we're directed to the wrong carriage, then moved to another. Around midnight we settle into our home for the next 4 days, along with between 4 and 8 Mongolian traders. In the UK I think we'd refer to these people using derisory terms suggesting they make their living outside of the law. That aside they were nice people and were there to make a living, rather than the sado masochism Susie and I were enduring.

Day 2 - Thursday - endless miles of swamp and bare silver birch trees. Crossed the Urals into Asia (at night).

Day 3 - Friday - entered Siberia, snow on the ground did little to make the endless miles of swamp and bare silver birch trees any more interesting.

Day 4 - Saturday - highlight of the day, the traders left the train! They climb back onto one bound for Moscow, spending 6 of every 7 days on the train, what a life! Landscape relatively more interesting, polished off a bottle of finest Russian vodka then had an early night. Couple of other travelers from the UK joined us around midnight which was to be expected, plenty of room for 4 so no problem.

Day 5 - Sunday - the best day by far. Sunrise in Irkusk followed by a spectacular journey along the edge of lake Baikal. Hidden settlements, forests, mountains and plains made this the best day yet. (top tip - fly to Irkusk, visit the lake then catch the train, you'll miss nothing!)

Day 6 - Monday - after a 6 hour delay at the border as the Russian guards fine all of the traders who have hidden goods we finally reach Ulaan Baatar, the capital of Mongolia.



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